Tim Elliott uncovers a small
but ecstatic band of surfers who get paid to ride the best waves
around the world.
When I went to school last century my mates and I
were of the opinion that being a professional surfer was the world’s
best job. This is because we had absolutely no idea what pro surfers
actually did. When I became a journo on a surf magazine I discovered
that most pro surfers live hand-to-mouth, chasing the contest circuit
from country to country, bunking down 10-to-a-room in tenement-like
conditions while awaiting their inevitable first-round defeat at the
hands of someone like Kelly Slater.
After that they scrounge around searching for ways
to cover their costs. Not the world’s worst job, I’ll grant you, but far
from the best.
Still, we weren’t far off the mark. What my mates
and I were dreaming of was the so-called “endless summer” – a way of
being able to surf great waves all year round and not have things like
reality get in the way. Believe it or not, such a job does exist. It’s
called free surfing and if you’re unhappy in your job, you should stop
reading right now.
“The job of the free surfer is to go out and surf
for the cameras,” says Gary Dunne, team manager for Rip Curl. “These are
extremely talented elite surfers who, for certain reasons, simply aren’t
suited to competition – perhaps because of their temperament or their
style of surfing.” Instead of making money from their contest winnings,
free surfers are paid by surf companies to travel the world, surf great
waves in exotic locations and get photographed doing so. “They truly
live the dream,” Dunne says. “And in living that dream they get coverage
for the brand that sponsors them.”
The world’s big surf companies (Quiksilver,
Billabong and Rip Curl) maintain a small team of free surfers, who are
paid between $50,000 to $200,000, depending on their profile and
experience. Most are on fixed-term contacts, usually two years, after
which they must show how much coverage they’ve generated.
“These guys are basically committed to surf,” Billabong’s Simon Barratt
says, “to inspire people during free-surf sessions, to go on editorial
and video trips to great wave locations around the world and come back
with good material.”
So, is it as good as it sounds? “Yeah!” says Dylan
Longbottom, who has been a free surfer with Billabong for 10 years.
“When I tell people what I do they look at me and go, ‘You can’t be for
real".
Now living at Kirra on the Gold Coast, 32-year-old
Longbottom grew up in Kiama, where his surfing was shaped by powerful
reef breaks. “I did the whole competition thing when I was about 20
years old, but it never suited my style. I was more used to pulling huge
moves in big waves, so I couldn’t perform in 20-minute heats in crappy
little surf.” Having bailed from the contest scene after two years,
Longbottom now surfs as part of the Billabong Adventure Division. “I’m
much happier inside,” he says. And so he should be. In the next year he
anticipates travelling to Chile, Tahiti, Fiji, South Africa, Portugal,
Spain and France. “Most trips are one to two weeks. It depends on the
swell. Billabong has a full-time meteorologist whose job is to predict
exactly where the best swell is going to be anywhere in the world.
When he spots one, we head off.” The company organises tickets,
translators, ground transport and covers all expenses (naturally), “plus
boats, jet skis and helicopters if we need them”.
Longbottom has made his name in big surf, but
another Billabong free surfer, Dave “Rasta” Rastovich, is running a more
“left field race”. Based in Brunswick Heads, the 26-year-old
Rastovich spends eight months of the year travelling, following storms
and swells from Japan to Polynesia, usually in collaboration with
filmmakers and photographers. Last year he appeared in Sprout, a film by
Californian surfer and film director Thomas Campbell, who is part of the
Beautiful Losers, an underground art movement in the US. Sprout was
“just for fun”, he says; “just to contribute to the general stoke of
humanity”. But he also helps out with projects such as 2005’s Wave of
Compassion, a two-part documentary made in conjunction with Surf Aid
International, which highlighted the issue of malaria in Indonesia. Then
there’s Rasta’s recently released debut film Life Like Liquid, a
freeform tribute to surf, sound and “living spontaneously”.
“I surf every day, usually on my own,” he says.
“I’m not anti-social or anything, I just prefer the ocean’s company to
large groups of people. I like to get away from the human world of
contraptions and concepts and to feel small; to feel the fact that we
are a tiny but integral part of this whole thing on the planet.”
Right on, Rasta.
In many ways, the free surf phenomenon is an “envy
industry”, not dissimilar to fashion or real estate, both of which
thrive on selling dreams. Just as we all lust after that waterfront
mansion, everybody -well, every surfer – has at some stage fantasised
about being a free surfer. One of the first surf companies to realise
this was Rip Curl, which launched its Search concept as a potent
marketing tool in the early 1990s. The Search took surfers to places
that had never been surfed, capturing the cultural landscape as well as
the waves.
“The Search is amazing,” says 21-year-old Rip Curl
surfer Lee Wilson. “We just came back from a three-week trip to
Tanzania, where we were the first people to surf this wave in the middle
of nowhere. It’s all about the adventure.”
When not surfing in Tanzania or near his home on
the Gold Coast, Wilson can be found in that renowned surfers’ paradise,
Bali. “I’ll just get up in the morning and check where the best surf is
and then surf and film all day, trying to get the best clips we can
get.”
The lucky bastard can’t even nominate his best
trip. “They’re all incredible. Chile was good; we did a film there
recently. One day you’re in the city and the next you’re in some
incredibly beautiful spot, surfing.”
Does life get any better? “Ummm,” he says, with
infuriating indifference. “I guess not.
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