Santa delivers epic swell to SE Qld albeit a little late
JC’s account after surfing Noosa
Saturday the 29th was a classic day of waves in
South East Qld. The much discussed low pressure system really cranked up off
to the ENE of Fraser Island and there was a big high pressure system sitting
under it tightening up the pressure gradient.
The swell was in the 5-7 ft range out of the ESE
with bigger sets on low tide at dawn. The wind was up and into it from the
SE early. Wave heights increased a little more on the incoming tide, but the
only clean options were at the bottom end of the Superbank from Coolangatta
to Kirra on the Goldy and Noosa up on the Sunny Coast. All other breaks were
affected by the strong SE winds.
Noosa was firing. Conditions were at their peak around mid morning on half
tide. There were plenty of options at Noosa. The Boiling Pot at National
Park, from Nationals into Johnson’s and First Point were the prime options.
Car parks were at a premium with the Xmas–New Year holidays in full swing
and the paddle against the sweep was shoulder busting. It was a day to
remember and the outlook for Sunday is more of the same or maybe a bit
better again. - JC
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First Point Noosa at 7.30am Photo: Peel |
Jonsons 7.45am Photo: Peel |
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Photo: Peel |
Unidentified at Enos. Photo: Peel |
Kurt Jacobs post surf Kirra wrap.
Thursday was pretty average. It was 1-2 foot, side
shore and so over crowded even at mini Snapper. I hit it for a super late,
and got caught with the crowd. The tide was quite low and sucking dry behind
the rock which made for some short, sweet, intense little drops and some
small running barrels.
I was more on it yesterday (Friday the 28th) surfing around mid tide. I
headed straight for Cooly and Big Groyne. The swell was still only 3 foot
with the occasional 4 footer coming through. It was fun, not epic, but there
were some nice barrels (if you were lucky enough to get the right one). I
gotta say one thing for the east swells they pack a punch and sure make for
a strong sweep. I wouldn’t have thought the sweep could be that strong, but
let me tell you it was pretty bloody serious yesterday.
The swell jacked today. There were some 6-8 foot bombs coming in off the rocks and making it near impossible to paddle out. I jumped in and was swept down straight past the Little Marley rocks..Oops here we go again..huh funny as....The flow of the waves slowed down enough for me to sneak out and I headed straight down the line for Cooly again. Even at high tide there were some wash through sets, but the waves that doubled up went square and lined up for a good 100yards. There were some nice caves today. I have been out there when it was way better, but the size of the swell and the power in which it was breaking was real adrenalin shot..
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Lunchtime on Sat the 29th at Cooly. Photo: Shield |
Clean little inside Kirra cave. Lunchtime on Sat. Photo: Shield |
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The paddle out at Snapper was hectic Photo: Bartles |
Parko arcing in the pocket at Big Groyne at midday on Sat. Photo: Shield |
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Wobbly Sat arvo swell lines marching into Kirra. Photo: Bartles |
If you were in the right spot at the right time you could snag a clean inside one at Kirra Photo: Bartles |
A forecasters view from the balcony by Mike Perry.
The swell has been rising steadily since the wind
started to get serious yesterday (Friday the 28th) at 10:30 AM; but since
this AM, around 7-8:00, it has been charging up on both the Goldy and the
Sunny Coasts.
The GC right now (1:00 PM on Sat the 29th) is about 6'-8'+ but I just saw a
sailboard mast (18') almost disappear completely from sight between 2 waves
outside Currumbin Alley, so it might be bigger than 8'.
Mainly it's a total mess of out of control wash-throughs.
No rain though.
Absolutely dangerous. Do not go out unless experienced.
Jasper Endersby at Nationals.
Photo: Peel
A full rundown of the swell can be found on www.coastalwatch.com